Common, Cheap Medicines for Stray Dogs Diseases in India – Stray and community dogs in India often suffer from a range of health issues – from skin diseases (like mange and fungal infections) to parasite infestations, open wounds, and injuries. While professional veterinary care is ideal, many basic ailments can be managed with inexpensive, over the counter (OTC) medicines and first aid. This guide is for casual feeders and beginners who want to help street dogs in distress with simple treatments. Always remember to use caution (restrain or muzzle the dog if needed) and consult a veterinarian for severe cases.

Skin Parasites: Mange, Fleas, and Ticks

Mange (mites causing hair loss and itching)

Mange is extremely common in Indian street dogs and leads to hair loss, scabs, and intense itching. It is caused by microscopic mites (like Sarcoptes or Demodex) that burrow into the skin. An effective and cheap treatment for mange is Ivermectin, a broad-spectrum antiparasitic. Feed the dog Ivermectin (Neomec) tablets or have it injected once a week for about 4 weeks. For example, one 3–6 mg Ivermectin tablet (approximately 10 mg for a medium-sized dog) given weekly is a common regimen. The easiest way to dose a stray is to crush the tablet into food or hide it in a tasty treat (like a ball of sweet sandesh) so the dog eats it unknowingly.

Do not use Ivermectin in puppies under 4 months or under ~10 kg body weight, and avoid it in Collie-breed dogs, as they can be sensitive

Alongside Ivermectin, medicated baths can help: dilute an Amitraz-based solution (available as pet ectoparasite dips) in water per the packet instructions and apply it to the dog’s skin twice a week for 4–6 weeks. Amitraz (often sold as RIDD or Ectodex lotion) kills mange mites on the skin – just be sure to prevent the dog from licking itself until it dries. Pet shampoos or soaps containing neem or medicated sulfur (like Petmosol soap) can also aid in reducing mites and soothing the skin

Fleas and Ticks

These blood-sucking external parasites are a year-round nuisance, especially in warmer months. Heavy tick infestations can cause anemia and transmit diseases, so controlling them is important. Anti-tick sprays and powders are readily available. Look for a fipronil spray (commonly available at vet pharmacies) or herbal tick sprays and apply it over the dog’s coat (avoiding the eyes and mouth). If using a spray, restrain the dog and spritz the solution along the back, belly, and legs, then allow it to air dry. For localized tick issues, you can directly remove ticks with tweezers, grasp the tick close to the skin and pull straight out gently. Dispose of ticks in alcohol to kill them. In addition to topical treatments, Ivermectin tablets also help prevent ticks: giving a 10 mg Ivermectin tablet once a month during high-risk seasons (March–August) has been found to reduce tick infestations in street dogs. Only do this for dogs over 4 months old and >10 kg. Always observe for any adverse reaction after giving Ivermectin.

Another preventive option is using tick collars or applying spot-on flea/tick treatments (available at pet stores), though these can be costlier. Regular brushing (if the dog is friendly) and occasional baths with anti-tick shampoo can also keep fleas and ticks at bay. If a dog has a heavy tick burden, also check inside its ears and between toes – common hiding spots for ticks. Keeping the dog’s resting area clean (sprinkling diluted antiseptic or lime) can help reduce re-infestation.

Caution: Do not use kerosene, diesel, or harsh chemicals on a dog’s skin for ticks/fleas – these folk remedies can burn the skin and are toxic. Stick to veterinary-approved tick/flea treatments. If the dog appears weak or sickly, consult a vet before using insecticidal sprays or Ivermectin.

Wound Care and Maggot Infestations

Street dogs frequently get wounds from fights or accidents, and if left untreated, these wounds can become maggot-infested (fly larvae eat into the flesh) which is life-threatening. Prompt wound care is critical.

Cleaning Minor Wounds

For any open cut or scrape that is not deep, start by cleaning the area with a mild antiseptic. Povidone iodine solution (sold as Betadine, Common, Cheap Medicines for Stray Dogs) is an excellent OTC antiseptic – dilute a little with clean water and gently wash the wound with cotton or gauze. This disinfects the area. After cleaning, apply an antibiotic wound powder like Neosporin or Nebasulf liberally onto the wound to help it dry and prevent infection. Finally, apply a fly-repellent ointment over the wound. An economical option is Himax cream (an herbal veterinary ointment) which has a strong smell that deters flies from laying eggs. Put a layer of Himax or any bitter-tasting ointment on and around the wound so the dog won’t lick it and flies stay away. If Himax is unavailable, you can use a regular petroleum jelly mixed with a bit of disinfectant as a barrier layer, but dedicated anti-fly creams work best. Repeat cleaning and dressing the wound once daily if possible until it heals. For shallow wounds, this basic first aid usually suffices and prevents maggots from ever appearing.

Treating Maggot Wounds

If a wound has a foul smell, deep pocket, or visible holes with whitish crawling larvae, it is a maggot wound. Treating these requires patience but can be done with OTC supplies. First, restrain and muzzle the dog for safety – treating maggots is painful and the dog may snap. Do not attempt to treat maggot wounds on the head or near the eyes; those cases should go straight to a vet. For other areas, follow these steps:

• Flush the wound with antiseptic (iodine or saline) to clean out dirt.
  1. Ivermectin solution is another Common, Cheap Medicines for Stray Dogs Diseases in India that can kill maggots on contact. Using a syringe (without needle), put a few drops of Ivermectin 1% solution directly into the wound tunnels. Typically, 4–5 drops of the injectable solution are used in each maggot hole. If you don’t have the injectable form, you can crush an Ivermectin tablet into powder and pack a pinch of it into the wound – it has a similar maggot-killing effect.
  2. Irritate and remove maggots: You may also spray a wound medicine like Topicure or D-Mag into the wound; these veterinary sprays contain agents that irritate maggots and prompt them to come out. As maggots emerge, use tweezers or forceps to pluck them out carefully. Take your time to remove all visible larvae – this may require several cycles of spraying and picking. (Tip: Have a bowl of antiseptic or kerosene to drop the maggots in to kill them.)
  3. After removing maggots, fill the wound with antibiotic powder (Neosporin/Nebasulf) which helps dry the area and prevent bacterial infection. You can also apply an antibiotic cream like Lorexane if available to promote healing.
  4. Finally, apply a thick outer layer of fly repellent ointment (Himax or similar) around and over the wound. This is crucial to stop new flies from laying more eggs on the wound.
  5. Keep the dog in a clean, dry area if possible. Re-check the wound daily. Often, you will need to repeat the maggot-killing procedure the next day because some larvae might remain hidden. Each day, clean the wound, apply a few Ivermectin drops, and remove any remaining maggots.
  6. Once you see healthy pink tissue and no new maggots, continue daily wound care (antiseptic, powder, ointment) until fully healed. Healing can take 1–2 weeks for small wounds, longer for large ones. During this time, keeping flies off is the key – reapply fly repellent ointment frequently.

Note: Ivermectin used in wounds is absorbed minimally but avoid using it in very young puppies or lactating female dogs for maggot treatment. If a wound is extremely large or the dog is in bad shape (weak or anemic from maggots), seek veterinary attention for possible antibiotics, fluid therapy, and more intensive care.

Internal Parasites: Deworming for Worm Infestations

Almost all stray dogs have internal parasites (worms) due to scavenging habits. Roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, and others live in the intestines, causing malnutrition, potbellies in pups, and even anemia. Routine deworming is one of the best things you can do for a street dog’s health. Deworming tablets or syrups are cheap and available at pet shops and pharmacies without prescription. For adult dogs, a broad-spectrum dewormer given once every three months is recommended. This ensures any roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, or whipworms are killed and expelled.

Common effective dewormers include albendazole, fenbendazole, or pyrantel+praziquantel combination tablets. Ask a pharmacist for a “dog deworming tablet for X kg body weight.”

Dosage: Always follow the instructions on the dewormer package. Many dog deworming tablets are dosed by weight (for example, one tablet might treat 10 kg of body weight). Estimate the dog’s weight as best as you can and give the appropriate dose.

For puppies under 6 months, liquid deworming syrups (often containing pyrantel pamoate) are convenient – you can squirt the syrup (using a syringe or dropper) into the pup’s mouth or mix it in a small amount of sweetened water. For adult dogs, if the dog is shy or not used to hand-feeding, you can hide the tablet in some tasty food. A clever trick is to wrap the tablet in a ball of jaggery or bread – street dogs will often gulp it down, not noticing the pill. Another method is to crush the tablet into powder and mix it into something the dog likes (curd, minced meat, or even milk). Ensure the dog eats the full portion to get the full dose.

Frequency: Stray dogs should ideally be dewormed four times a year (quarterly). If that’s not feasible, aim for at least twice a year. Regular deworming keeps the dog healthier and also reduces the spread of parasites (worm eggs in dog feces can infect other animals and even humans). Community initiatives often hide deworming tablets inside treats or sweets to feed multiple stray dogs during a deworming drive– you can do the same in your locality.

After deworming, you may sometimes see worms passed out in the dog’s stool – this is normal. Ensure the dog has access to water, as some dewormers (like praziquantel for tapeworms) can make them thirsty. If a dog is heavily infested, a repeat dose 2 weeks after the first may be advised to catch any newly hatched worms.

Warning: Do not give human deworming medicines (for example, high-dose albendazole meant for humans) without confirming the proper dog dosage. It’s safest to use products made for dogs.

Allergies and Skin Itching

Street dogs often suffer from itchy skin – this can be due to allergies (flea allergies, pollen, or food), fungal infections, or just general dermatitis from the harsh environment. If a dog has red, irritated skin or constant itching (after you’ve addressed fleas or mange), an OTC antihistamine can provide relief. One commonly used antihistamine is Avil (Pheniramine maleate), which is inexpensive in India. A 25 mg Avil tablet can be given to a small-medium dog, or 50 mg for a large dog, to reduce itching and allergic reactions. Antihistamines like Avil may cause drowsiness, which actually helps the dog rest instead of scratching. Another safe antihistamine is Cetirizine (brand name Zyrtec) – a dose of about 10 mg once daily is typical for a 10–20 kg dog. (For smaller dogs ~5 kg, use half a 10 mg tablet). Always give these medications with some food and clean water available. Do not use combination cold medicines (which may contain decongestants) – only use plain antihistamine pills.

In addition to medication, topical treatments can soothe allergic itching. You can apply calamine lotion or aloe vera gel to localized itchy spots – these are OTC and safe if the dog licks a small amount. Coconut oil is a readily available home remedy: applying a thin layer of virgin coconut oil to dry, flaky patches can moisturize the skin and has mild anti-bacterial properties. Some feeders create a mixture of coconut oil with a little camphor and sulfur powder to treat itchy, heat-related rashes, but use caution that the dog doesn’t ingest too much (camphor is only for external use). If the dog has bald patches with red circular lesions (possible ringworm fungus), you can apply an OTC antifungal cream such as clotrimazole or ketoconazole twice a day on those spots. Keep the area clean and dry. Bathing the dog with a medicated shampoo (containing ingredients like chlorhexidine or ketoconazole) can help chronic skin issues – if the dog tolerates bathing, do this once a week. Always dry the dog well after baths to avoid fungal growth.

Diet and supplements: Improving the dog’s nutrition will improve skin health. If possible, feed the dog a bit of protein (eggs, meat) or omega-3 rich foods occasionally to help the coat. Some OTC multivitamin or omega-3 capsules for pets can be mixed in food a couple of times a week to support skin recovery, though not essential.

If itching is severe (dog is wounding itself by scratching) or accompanied by a lot of hair loss, the underlying cause might be mange or a serious allergy – address parasites first and consult a vet if possible for persistent skin problems.

First Aid for Injuries and Broken Limbs

Street dogs face risks of trauma (hit by vehicles, falls, fights). For minor injuries like sprains or bruises, the dog might just limp but still bear weight. You can help by restricting the dog’s movement (encourage rest) and reducing inflammation. Cold compresses (if the dog allows) applied to a swollen joint or paw for a few minutes can ease pain. Do not give human painkillers like ibuprofen, diclofenac, or acetaminophen – these are toxic to dogs. If you suspect pain, you can give aspirin only if absolutely needed and with food, at a low dose (5 mg per kg of dog’s weight, roughly a quarter of a 300 mg tablet for a 15 kg dog) – but this should be done sparingly and preferably under guidance, as aspirin can cause stomach upset. It’s safer to use a vet-prescribed pain med for dogs (like carprofen or meloxicam) if you have access.

For more serious injuries like a broken limb (fracture), first aid is about stabilizing the dog and preventing further harm. If a dog is holding a leg up or it’s visibly bent at an odd angle, you should immobilize the limb before transport. Gently and calmly approach the dog (injured dogs may be fearful or aggressive). If possible, muzzle the dog to protect yourself (use a cloth or bandage to tie around the snout loosely but securely). Do not attempt to reset a fracture or push bones into place – instead, splint the leg in its current position. You can make a makeshift splint using any straight, rigid objects like sticks, a piece of wood, cardboard, or even a rolled-up magazine/newspaper. Place one on each side of the injured leg to stabilize it. Then use strips of cloth, bandages, or tape to secure the splints around the leg. Wrap firmly but not so tight that it stops circulation (the dog’s paw should not become cold or swollen). The goal is simply to prevent the broken bone from moving too much. If there is an open wound with the fracture, cover it with a clean cloth or sterile gauze before splinting to keep dirt out. Once splinted, take the dog to a veterinarian as soon as possible for proper treatment (casting or surgery).

In cases where immediate vet care isn’t available, keep the dog confined in a small area so it doesn’t use the injured limb. Provide soft bedding. Over the next days, monitor for swelling – if toes swell or the dog chews at the splint, it may be too tight or infected, and vet attention is needed. Remember that fractures are painful; limiting movement and keeping the dog calm is the best you can do until a vet intervenes.

If a dog has a bleeding wound from trauma, apply direct pressure with a clean cloth to stop the bleeding. You can use an antiseptic like Betadine on the wound once bleeding is under control, then bandage it. Always keep an eye on the dog’s overall condition – if it’s in shock (very weak, pale gums, rapid breathing), keep it warm and seek emergency help.

Other Common Ailments and Care Tips

Dehydration and Heat Stroke

Indian summers can be brutal for stray dogs. If you find a dog panting heavily, drooling, or weak on a hot day, it could be heat exhaustion. Move the dog to shade immediately. Offer clean water (in a bowl or even a puddle on a flat dish) for the dog to drink – hydration is critical. You can pour cool (not ice-cold) water on the dog’s paws and belly to gradually lower body temperature. In case of mild dehydration (sunken eyes, skin tenting), you can mix a packet of human ORS (Oral Rehydration Salts) in water and let the dog drink it, or even offer electrolyte-rich fluids like coconut water. Prevention is key: keep a bowl of water out for community dogs during summer

Diarrhea

Street dogs often get diarrhea from eating garbage. If the dog has loose motions but is alert and drinking, you can feed a bland diet for a day: rice congee or plain boiled rice with a bit of curd can help firm up stools. Ensure plenty of clean water is available to prevent dehydration. You can also give a few tablespoons of pumpkin puree or mashed banana – home remedies that help with diarrhea. Avoid giving milk (it can worsen diarrhea for adult dogs). If diarrhea is severe (very watery or with blood) or accompanied by vomiting, the dog likely needs veterinary treatment (antidiarrheal shots or IV fluids). In an emergency where a vet isn’t immediately reachable, one OTC medicine you might use is metronidazole (an antibiotic for gut infections) at a dose of around 25 mg per kg twice daily – but this is best given under vet guidance. When in doubt, focus on hydration and seek help.

Eye Infections

Dust and flies can cause eye issues in strays (redness, discharge). You can flush the dog’s eyes with sterile saline eye wash (available OTC, Common, Cheap Medicines for Stray Dogs) – gently rinse from a clean syringe or dropper. An OTC veterinary eye drop containing an antibiotic (like ciprofloxacin or ofloxacin) can be applied 3–4 times a day if you suspect infection (yellow/green discharge). Only apply drops if the dog is cooperative – never risk injury to yourself. Never use human eye drops that contain steroids without vet advice.

Ear Problems

If a dog is shaking its head or scratching ears, it might have ear mites or infection. You can put a few drops of ear cleaner (OTC pet ear cleaning solution or even slightly warmed baby oil) into the ear canal and gently massage the base of the ear. This can help dislodge wax and mites. The dog will likely shake out the debris. Wipe the outer ear with cotton. Repeat for a few days. If a foul smell or thick discharge persists, veterinary ear drops (containing antibiotics/antifungals) may be needed.

Finally, always keep a basic first aid kit handy if you care for street dogs. Include items like gauze, cotton, adhesive tape, a small scissors, antiseptic solution (Betadine or Cetrimide), antibiotic powder, bandages, and some of the key medicines mentioned: Ivermectin, antihistamine tablets, dewormers, anti-tick remedy, and a wound ointment. These basics can address most common stray dog issues on the spot. By being prepared and observant, even a common person with no veterinary background can significantly relieve a stray dog’s suffering with just a few OTC medicines and remedies. Your compassion and care, combined with the right knowledge, can give these community dogs a healthier and happier life.

Sources: The recommendations above are drawn from street-animal first aid guides, personal experience and veterinary advice. Animal welfare organizations in India emphasize prompt first aid for skin problems, wounds and parasites in street dogs